Dyeing leather is an excellent way of providing a unique color to your projects, but it can also be extremly frustrating to experience dye rub off without understanding why it is happening.
Many leathercrafters with over five years of leather crafting experienced responded to a poll. Eight (8) major reasons were identified explaining why rub off occurs when dyeing leather.
| Reasons that leather dye rubs off | Percentage |
| Use of alcohol vs oil-based dyes | 3% |
| Using an incompatible topcoat/sealant | 11% |
| Improper buffing | 11% |
| Dyeing low-quality leather | 8% |
| Improper / Not cleaning leather prior to dyeing | 6% |
| Black Dye | 14% |
| Topcoat/sealant not applied properly | 44% |
| Not removing the topcoat/sealant prior to dyeing | 3% |
Table of Contents
Alcohol-based dyes dry quickly and lead to dye rub off
The alcohol solvent carrying the dye through the leather evaporates before all of the dye has a chance to travel to the leather fibers for absorption. Unabsorbed dye pigments remain on the surface and rub off during contact with another surface.
Although alcohol is a great solvent for carrying dye pigments through the leather fibers, it has the issue of evaporating quickly.
You can see this for yourself. Just purchase a bottle of rubbing alcohol and leave the container open for a few days. You will notice that the alcohol level decrease is drastically each day.
Another issue associated with the rapid evaporation of alcohol-based dyes is that the alcohol tends to pull some of the natural moisture out of the leather during the drying process. This causes the leather to become extremely dry and stiff.
The leather can be softened by applying a moisturizer such as Neatsfoot Oil, but this could lead to more dye rub off if it is not done correctly. For more information on how to properly soften dye leather, check out the post How to Soften Leather
This problem can be avoided by using an oil-based dye. The oil and these dyes have the added benefit of providing moisture and the alcohol doesn’t evaporate as quickly. So the benefit here is twofold. Your leather is not as stiff after dyeing and the dye is more evenly distributed since it has been given more time to penetrate the leather. This is why you see less rub off with oil-based dyes.
Before we go any further I have to clear up what is meant by oil and alcohol-based leather dyes. Oil-based leather dyes such as the Fiebings Professional Dyes and alcohol-based eyes are what we call “spirit” or “solvent-based” dyes.
Both dyes use alcohol as the solvent for carrying the dye to leather fibers. For these dyes, the alcohol component could be as much as 95% of the total dye solution. I have included a breakdown of the alcohols included in the Fiebings oil-based dyes.
- 2-ethoxyethoxy (Ethanol) 10 – 30%
- Ethanol 30 – 60%
- Isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) 1 – 5%.
The major chemical difference between the two dyes is that oil-based dyes have an oil component added.
If you want to geek out on this more information can be found at Fiebings Professional Dyes
Projects treated with oil-based dyes when given a minimum of 24 hours to dry produce minimal traces of dye rub off along the top-grain, flesh side, and edges after dry buffing. Oiling these projects to replenish moisture and add softness often leads to a slight increase in dye rub-off in all areas. However, alcohol-based dyes produce moderate amounts of dye rub off along the top-grain, flesh side, and edges after dry buffing and a heavy increase in dye rub off after oiling
Water-based sealants cause water-based dyes to rub off
Water-based dyes such as Tandy’s Eco Flo line use water as a solvent and have considerably less dye rub-off when compared to alcohol-based dyes. However, smearing and rub-off is often observed after the addition of a water-based topcoat/sealant due to the similarities in the two products.
Water evaporates a lot slower than alcohol so the dry time is a little longer. The longer dry time gives the dye more time to penetrate the leather fibers resulting in a dyed finish that is even and less streaky.
All of this is great if you don’t use a water-based sealant such as Satin Sheen. But the problem occurs when you try to use water-based sealants with water-based dyes. The dye and the sealant are both composed of mainly water. So instead of the sealant providing a protective layer, it mixes in with the dye. And this is what causes the smears and rub off.
Many leather crafters including myself love Resolene as a sealant for solvent-based dyes because of its waterproofing abilities. In my opinion, when used properly it’s one of the best water-proofing sealants on the market. It is water-based, but it is acrylic meaning that it will not reactivate with water.
But here is a quick tip. Resolene should not be used straight. You will need to make a 50/50 solution. In other words, you will need to pour the same amount of Resolene and water into a container and mix it.
I was never a big fan of water-based dyes and avoided them for a few reasons. There wasn’t a large variety of colors, so thinning and mixing of different dyes was needed to achieve the vast variety of colors associated with alcohol-based dyes. But mixing dyes is not difficult. I have written about it at The Best Way to Thin Leather Dyes (plus a review of common thinners).
The second issue was wet molding. Wet forming or wet molding had to be done prior to using a water-based dye. Wet forming after the use of water-based dyes often leads to dye rub off. This occurred because the water in the dye was mixing with the water I was using to create molds.
This is no longer a major issue. I found a few ways to work around this and I have addressed it in another post entitled: How to Wet Form Tooled Leather: (Plus 8 tips for retaining details)
I spent a lot of time going over this because I know some places have restrictions on the types of dyes hobbyists can use. I remember at one point the state of California was not allowing the sale of alcohol-based dyes to hobbyists due to environmental reasons.
Companies began producing alternative eco-friendly solvent-based dyes called “low VOCs” or “low Volatile Organic Compound” dyes.
Improper buffing of dyed leather leads to rub off
Another common reason for dye rub off is not adequately buffing an applied layer of dye after it has been given the required amount of time to dry. Regardless of what type of dye you choose to use for your leather projects, there will be slight traces of dye left on the surface of the leather.
Remove excess dye from the surface of the leather by allowing a minimum of 6 hours of dry time. Follow this by vigorously buffing small sections with a lint-free cloth until there are no traces of dye on a clean piece of cloth.. For maximum efficiency, buff one section at a time.
For example, focus on just the top grain side of the leather. Buff the area by rubbing the area vigorously either back and forth or in small circles. Occasionally stop buffing and inspect the cloth to get a visual indicator of the amount of dye being transferred to your cloth.
Switch to a clean area of the cloth and repeat the process of vigorously buffing and inspecting. The amount of dye being deposited to a clean area of cloth should continue to decrease during every inspection.
Once there is virtually no dye being deposited on the cloth, move to another section of the leather. Repeat this process on the edge of the leather and the flesh side of the leather.
If you are applying multiple layers of dye, it is best to let it dry well between the layers and then buff as described above.
Buffing leather to remove excess dye can be time-consuming, but it’s important that you are deliberate in your efforts to effectively prevent dye rub off or transfer.
Low quality leathers poorly absorb dye and lead to rub off
One of the often overlooked issues of dye rub-off is the quality of the leather being used.
Economy leathers usually have some characteristic that prevents it from functioning properly and dye rub off is one of the main culprits
Bargain brand and economy leathers usually have multiple defects and damaged areas. Additionally, some bargain brand / economy leathers are produced by inconsistent or questionable tanning procedures. All of these issues contribute to less dye being absorbed into the leather and more rub off.
Quality leather comes from a tannery with a consistent tanning process that produces a durable grain of leather that has the ability to accept all types of dyes and finishes without issues or failures resulting in minimal dye rub off.
I get it…you want to save money, and get more leather for your hard earned dollars. But the fact of the matter is that bargain leathers aren’t really bargains when you start noticing issues with dye rub-off, poor dye penetration, cracking and splitting along the edges, or rancid smells.
I want to caution you before making that purchase. The issue with bargain leather is that they may actually cause more headaches in the dyeing process than necessary.
I am just as guilty of this as the next person. I have fallen victim to the sale signs that say something like:
Have you ever seen a sign in a hobby store that says something like “Cheap Leather Hides for Sale” , or “Clearance Leather Hides for Sale?” Did you find a way to convince yourself that purchasing the hide would save you money on your new project? And did you end up frustrated with the final result?
Yeah, I’m guilty of making the same purchase.
You have to ask yourself: Was it really a bargain if over half of the leather didn’t perform in the way that you expected? You may have actually paid more when you compare price per square foot.
Don’t get me wrong. I’m not saying that you should avoid bargain leathers. I’m simply saying that bargain / economy leathers should be used for testing out ideas.
I have found that they work best working the kinks and issues out of your designs so that when you get ready to complete the real project you can feel confident that the project will go according to plan. And you have wasted your good leather on just trying to figure things out.
Improperly cleaned leather results in dye rub off
Dye rub off is greatly reduced when applied to leather surfaces that have been properly prepared and cleaned.
Either there is something on the leather or in it that is preventing dye takeup. Silicone is particularly bad, if the leather has ever got silicone thread lube or other products, on it it will not take up dye as well.
Gum Trag or Gum Tragacanth will do the same thing. I have heard stories of leather that after a thorough cleaning it was discovered that the surface of the veg tan had been filled and pasted to correct flaws. These areas of the leather didn’t absorb dye evenly.
When you get rub off, take a minute to think back…..Did you unintentionally do something to the leather that may have prevented it from completely absorbing the dye?
Here is a statement from one leatherworker
I did a belt the other day and changed up my procedure a little and when I noticed where the problem area was I had to think about what might have caused it.
I was doing a black belt and I punched all the holes prior to dyeing and noticed that the holes were not taking the dye, and what it was is that I had used wax on my punches. The wax area was not absorbing the dye. Once I cleaned it with denatured alcohol I had no problem.
Leatherworker
Most black leather dyes will produce rub off
Black solvent based dyes
Black alcohol-based dyes have a high probability of rubbing off regardless of the manufacturer. It is 2 to 3 times as much buffing to remove all of the excess dye when compared to other colors.
To combat this, many crafters apply a precoat of either dark blue, green, or brown dye before applying the black dye. Once the black dye has dried the leather has to be buffed vigorously prior to sealing.
Black water based dyes
Black water-based dyes from Tandy (Eco-Flo) are an excellent alternative to black alcohol-based dyes. They don’t rub off as much and they don’t require a pre-coating of another dark dye before application to truly achieve the dark color.
However, there are a couple of areas of concern. The black color is not quite as rich as black alcohol-based dyes, but relatively close. Secondly, water-based dyes have to be well sealed or it will rub off under moist conditions such as rain or perspiration.
Vinegaroon
There is another black dye alternative that doesn’t bleed, and that is vinegaroon. I must admit that I am not well versed in this technique, but I have provided some information if you want to research it further.
One leather crafter stated
I’ve all but quit using dyes, myself. I’ve come to really enjoy the waxed leather’s natural color unless I want something in black. Vinegaroon produces the darkest, most evenly black color I’ve found and will not rub off or bleed onto other items.
Leatherworker
Waxing vinegarooned leather makes for a slightly glossy surface that you wouldn’t believe.
Vinegaroon is just vinegar that’s had steel left in it long enough for the acid to dissolve the steel.
I have managed to gather the instructions for making vinegaroon.
- Wash 0000 steel wool in soapy water to remove any oils
- Place it into a liter bottle of white vinegar
- Poking a small hole in the lid to let it gas off for a few weeks.
Another quick tip is to run the vinegaroon through a coffee filter to remove particulates if you plan on using it for dip dyeing.
An inadequate top coat sealant application will lead to dye rub off
Choosing the proper dye for your leather project, allowing a dye to dry for the appropriate amount of time, and properly buffing the leather until there’s no excess dye coming off on your cloth, will be worthless if a topcoat application is not adequate enough to seal in your leather dye.
The application of the topcoat sealant is a very important step in the dying process. The topcoat sealant is a protective layer of wax and adhesive that prevents the die from being able to travel through the layer.
If a topcoat is not applied properly then the dye will be able to travel through the layer and rub off onto the surface that it is contacting. This could be your clothes or your skin.
If a topcoat is not applied dye rub off will occur through natural friction when the dyed surface comes in contact with another surface or when moisture is applied to the surface of the dyed leather surface.
I see this most often when inexperienced leather crafters mistakenly think that they are applying a top coat and they are really just applying a moisturizer.
Now there are situations where some topcoats are preferred over others depending on the type of dye used for your project. Some of the most common topcoats include Resolene which is a water-based acrylic topcoat and leather balm which has a waxy component.
To be brief, care and attention must be taken when choosing a proper topcoat. For example, water-based dyes would not do well with Resolene. I prefer to stick with top coat sealants that can serve a variety of different types of dyes.
But again you will need to choose a topcoat that fits the type of guy that you’re going to use on your projects.
Applying dye to a topcoat sealant will lead to rub off
Another common mistake with dye rub off is not removing a topcoat sealant prior to adding a new layer of dye. This occurs most often when attempting to re-dye a project.
I often hear about this when an individual purchases a used leather item and decides that they want to change the color. But what they forget is that layer of dye that they are seeing was most likely sealed with a topcoat in order to prevent rub off.
Remember, the purpose of a topcoat is to prevent the movement of dye between layers. This means that dye is prevented from leaving the layer, which protects you from rub off. But it also means that dye can not get into the layer.
So if you if a layer of dye is applied over a topcoat, most of it will sit on the surface and then rub off on contact.
The only way to re-dye a previously sealed item is to remove the top coat with a deglazer. We have written an extensive post titled Should You Deglaze Leather Before Dyeing It.
Check it out. It will provide all of the information you need on how to remove the topcoat prior to dyeing.
